Introduction to
PLASTIC VENEER
Construction

Plastic Veneer construction is a QUICK & SIMPLE method of building highly detailed models suitable for indoor and outdoor display, also finishing Doll houses and adding detail to other kit buildings. The basic structure consists of a strong Box or Building, with the highly detailed Plastic Veneer panels glued on as a veneer.

The Box can be built of wood, plywood, Plexiglas and many other materials can be used, but we recommend our rigid styrofoam Perfic Panels.

Perfic Panels have a high density polystyrene foam core with a super white high impact polystyrene skin on both sides. Perfic Panels are weatherproof, waterproof, UV resistant and are easily cut with a knife, scissors or hot wire. The use of chipboard, particleboard and other such composite materials that may absorb moisture and deteriorate, are therefore not recommended for outdoor use. Small buildings, such as tool sheds, outhouses, etc.; the Box or building may be a solid wooden block.

The Plastic Veneer sheets are made of a specially formulated styrene, which includes rubber and other additives for improved strength, weather and UV resistance. The matte finish on both sides gives good adhesion for glue and paint.

PREPARATION using Q.E.D. (our Quick & Easy Drawings): Measure and draw the outline of all the parts on the Perfic Panels,  or material of your choice and boldly mark them with their name and part number, as shown on the cut-out drawing. Cut out all of the parts.

If you intend to use the CRYSTAL CLEAR windows or have open doors, now is the time to mark and cut out the window and door openings in the walls. Cut the openings to the size of the inside of the window or doorframe. See window and door installation details on next page.

CONSTRUCTION:

1. Always assemble the cut-out Perfic Panels parts in numerical order.
2. Install corner braces and roof stiffeners as necessary; about every 5".
3. Cut out and install the Plastic Veneer windows and doors.
4. NOTE: It's easier to paint clear windows, before installing.
5. Cut Plastic Veneer siding material to suit. If necessary, cut a paper or cardboard template first. Then install the siding (and optional corner pieces).
6. Install the Plastic Veneer roofing material, last.

MEASURING Plastic Veneer: Unless the area to be covered is a simple shape, we recommend that you make a template out of paper first. Check fit the template in place before transferring the template to the Plastic Veneer for cutting.

CUTTING Plastic Veneer: Place the Plastic Veneer sheet on a wood or plastic cutting board or a sheet of cardboard. Use a metal ruler or straight edge and the sharp blade of a modeling knife (#11 blade is best). Do not attempt to cut right through the Plastic Veneer. Use the "SCORE & BREAK" method. Simply score the Plastic Veneer with the blade of the modeling knife and bend the Plastic Veneer along the score line to give a neat break. The Plastic Veneer can be sanded with fine sandpaper, if necessary save the off-cuts for other small projects, such as door canopies, lean-tos, extensions, outhouses, etc...a dog kennel ?....a bird house?...

Your Imagination is the only limit !!!

GLUING: We recommend glue and include it in all of our kits; but you may wish to try other glues. Always follow the manufacturer's directions and test your glue on a scrap of Plastic Veneer and Perfic Panels before starting on the model. Spread the glue onto the BOX (not the Plastic Veneer) in a continuous bead around the perimeter, and then criss-cross the whole area with beads of glue, leaving bare patches no larger than 2" square. Place the Plastic Veneer panel onto the glued area and slide it around gently to spread out the glue and get the glue onto the back of the Plastic Veneer panel. Make sure a little glue oozes out at the edges to ensure that the Plastic Veneer panel will be secured firmly right up to the edges or corners of the building. Now pull off the Plastic Veneer panel to allow the solvent to evaporate, this is important, then reinstall. Repeat this several times. Spread out any large blobs of glue. It is important to allow the solvent to evaporate. Trapped solvent may soften and damage the Plastic Veneer. Finally re-install the Plastic Veneer in the final position, all within 40 seconds.

DO NOT USE GLUE AS A FILLER. Most glues when applied too thickly will soften and may deform the Plastic Veneer. When the glue has set, fill any gaps or holes with plastic wood, such as Dap® DryDex Spackle (sold at Wal-Mart, ACE Hardware, etc.). When the filler has dried it can be trimmed with a knife and sanded.

When cutting out the windows and doors from the detail sheet, leave at least a ¼" wide flange around the edges. Cut the opening in the Plastic Veneer sheet just big enough to allow the window/door frame to protrude through. If you intend to light the inside of the building or decorate the inside, use the CRYSTAL CLEAR windows. You must cut a hole in the wall, equal to e inside size of the window frame.

PAINTING & FINISHING: Most oil & water based paints available from hobby & crafts stores are suitable for painting the styrene Plastic Veneer sheets. Ask your dealer or check your paint on a scrap of Plastic Veneer before starting on the model. Paints can be applied by brush or spayed with an airbrush or aerosol can. DO NOT apply the paint too thickly as you may loose some of the fine detail. Use a stiff brush to retain wood grain finish. Matte finishes are more realistic. Different tones and shades can indicate fading, deterioration, rust, dirt and other weathering effects. Remember, most buildings are old!

WINDOWS require special attention... If you are using the regular solid white windows, paint the glazed areas with semi-gloss black or dark gray or paint the windows matte black. When dry, paint on the interior details, such as drapes, or maybe a lamp, pot of flowers even a cat looking out the window. When thoroughly dry, apply a final coat of clear gloss. If you are using the  CRYSTAL CLEAR windows, you need only paint the frame and mullions, leaving the panes clear. You can paint, or stick drapes or other details to the inside. If you intend to internally light your building we recommend that you paint the inside of the window frames with black paint to stop any light from shining through the frame and spoiling the effect.

FINALLY: Add signage and decals. If your building is to be displayed outdoors, ensure that the decals are waterproof. Then give the entire building a coat of clear satin spray such as KRYLON. This will seal the building and secure any decals or signs.

VARIATIONS: You do not have to stick rigidly to the plans. Change the structure. Build it longer, wider, higher, or add details  of your own. Look at buildings in your town. Why not build an abandoned house or factory with the windows boarded up, or a ghost town?

"Imagination is more important than knowledge" Albert Einstein